Sunday 2 December 2012

BUBBLE AND SQUEAK

I have eaten bubble and squeak all my life. What else would you do with the vegetables left over from a Sunday lunch, to go with the meat leftovers? Bubble and squeak is one of those dishes that people argue about so I am not claiming that this is the defintive recipe, I am just sharing my family recipe with you. Quantities are difficult because you are basically working with what you have but as a guideline you want to make the same amount of mashed potato as the vegetables you have leftover. I always add some peas too. I think one of the key ingredients is the white pepper - it adds a little heat and a lot of flavour to the end product.

Serves 2

2 handfuls of cooked cabbage/sprouts/beans/broccoli
1 handful of cooked peas
Potatoes to make 2 handfuls of mashed potatoes
White pepper
Salt
1 egg
Oil or lard

Boil the potatoes for 20 minutes until soft then mash them with a generous sprinking of white pepper. Chop up the vegetables and mix with the potato along with the egg. Season generously with a little salt and lots of white pepper. Heat a large frying pan, add the oil or lard and heat. When nice and hot put the mixture in the pan in four spoonfuls - leave for a couple of minutes then turn over when golden brown. Repeat.


I always have this with leftover roast meat, pickled onions and pickled walnuts. Just a London girl's recipe.

Saturday 1 September 2012

SALTIMBOCCA WITH MARSALA

You may notice a bit of a theme here – a couple of Sundays ago I felt like cooking something other than the usual Sunday roast, so thought about some of my favourite dishes to create a lunch. I started with the seafood salad in the previous post then proceeded to Saltimbocca, a classic Italian dish that translates, apparently, as ‘jumps in the mouth’.  Looking at Wikipaedia my versions has elements of both the classic and Roman versions, as it has a Marsala sauce but isn’t rolled up – the technicalities confuse me! At this point I admit I am not Italian and apologise if I offend anyone. 

This is traditionally made with veal, although in the UK it is often made with pork. However, now that British veal is so readily available, and so delicious, I have no qualms about going down the veal route. Most butchers and a lot of supermarkets now sell it – I got mine from Ocado and very delicious it was. This is quite a simple recipe and is good for a dinner party as it can be prepared way in advance – and actually the preparation isn’t that hard anyway. I served this with sprouting broccoli tossed in a little anchovy and garlic sauce, spinach and new potatoes.

 Serves 4 

8 small or 4 large veal escalopes
8 slices of Parma ham
8 large sage leaves (or 16 small)
8 toothpicks
Olive oil
Wine glass of Marsala 

If the escalopes are thick beat them out between two sheets of greaseproof paper or cling film until 5mm thick. Now the idea is to cover each escalope with Parma ham so, depending on the size of your escalopes use the appropriate amount of Parma ham. Then lay 1 or 2 (depending on size) sage leaves on top and secure the whole thing with a cocktail stick. They should then look like this:


Heat some olive oil in a large frying pan until moderately hot. Put the escalopes in Parma ham side down and cook for a couple of minutes, then turn over and cook for another 5 minutes or until cooked through. Put the escalopes onto a warm plate, and deglaze the pan with the Madeira, bubbling it well until syrupy. Serve the Saltimbocca immediately, drizzled with the sauce, and with whatever vegetables you fancy.

Thursday 9 August 2012

ITALIAN SEAFOOD SALAD

I have a good friend who is half Italian, and whose father was a very good cook, so I am always a bit nervous about writing about Italian food - so I hope if I make any culturally glaring errors she forgives me!

This is a lovely light starter that stimulates the appetite rather than smothers it, with flavour combinations that are well balanced and zingy. I used prawns, squid and scallops but you can also use razor clams, queenies, mussels, octopus and clams.  It is difficult to give measurements for the ingredients as it all depends on appetites and seafood combinations, but this is what we had last time I made it:

Serves 4

Olive oil
Clove of garlic crushed
8 king scallops, roe removed and sliced horizontally in half
4 medium sized squid tubes, with tentacles if possible, sliced into rings
16 king prawns, deveined
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Teaspoon of chilli flakes
Small bunch of chopped parsley

Heat the garlic slowly in 2 tablespoons of oil for five minutes to imopart its flavour - don't let it brown or it will become bitter. Remove the garlic and discard. Fry each item of seafood separately - I usually do the scallops first, getting the oil really hot and then searing them quickly on both sides. Remove to a bowl. Then do the prawns until they go pink and add to the scallops. Finally fry the squid rings and tentacles until just opaque and transfer to the bowl.

To the warm seafood add two tablespoons of good olive oil, ground black pepper and leave to cool. Then add the lemon juice, the chilli flakes and parsley. Stir and leave to rest for 15 minutes. Taste and season as required - you may need more lemon juice, more oil, or a pinch of salt. Divide between four shallow plates making sure everyone get an equal amount of seafood and dressing. I serve with warm ciabatta bread for soaking up the juices, and a chunk of lemon for added zing!

Sunday 15 July 2012

MY 50th BIRTHDAY PARTY!!!

I am truly happy to be 50 - a couple of years ago it was unlikely I would get this far and I feel happier every year I get older - I'm lucky. I made some difficult decisions 5 years ago but they were the right ones and now life is good. So I wanted to celebrate my 50th birthday but not in an over the top way - everyone I invited is important to me and Mr Redding. One of my guests I have know and loved since 1981 - others I have only really got to know in the last year. But they are all dear to me and Mr Redding and they were who we wanted to share this day with. And my Dad ... my Dad is great company and he wasn't short of glamorous women wanting to talk to him!  It was a lovely party, started at 4.00pm and ended at midnight - I will share pics of the food we had.....special mention to Sally at Persepolis http://foratasteofpersia.co.uk/ for wonderful kibbeh, pastries and baba ganoush base inredients....go there for a fabulous experience. So, random pics:


Baba Ganoush made with fantastic tinned aubergines from Persepolis


Lamd and vegetable samosas from Khans superstore on Rye Lane


Couscous with lots of mint, lemon and olve oil



Aubergines brushed with olive oil, griddled, and sprinkled with chilli flakes


Hummus - chick peas, tahini paste, olive oil and lemon juice - bliss...



Strips of chicken breast marinaded wirh za'atar and cumin - griddled quickly so it stayed juicy - glorious.

I also made Persian style lamp meatballs, amd served everything with lots of pitta bread and Persian flat bread. I think  it went ok....there was nothing left!

Monday 25 June 2012

SHOULDER OF LAMB WITH SPRING HERBS

Lamb is my favourite meat, as you may well have gathered. I always choose shoulder over leg because, frankly, I love fatty lamb and if it is cooked slowly a lots of the fat renders away anyway, leaving succulent flavourful tender meat. Mr Redding and I aren't blessed with a garden but we have a small balcony and, courtesy of Poundland, a rather clever space saving herb garden. We grow all the basics - rosemary, sage, thyme, parsley, chives, chervil and mint.  I don't grow coriander because I find it bolts so easily, and (whispers) I'm not a huge basil fan.

So what better way to cook a lovely young shoulder of lamb than with a selection of young herbs, giving a green lightness to the rich meat. I also added lemon zest for added zing. I bought a whole shoulder and boned it (because I quite enjoy boning out meat and I understand the lump of meat I am left with) but a pre-boned joint will do fine. This is very strauightforward but very tasty - I served it with boiled new potatoes and runner beans and petits pois.  Spinach would also go well.



Shoulder of Lamb with Spring Herbs

1 shoulder of lamb, around 1.6kg - boned
75g butter
2 handfuls of herbs, from chives, sage, thyme, rosemary and mint, chopped finely
Finely grated zest of a lemon
Salt and black pepper

Open out the boned shoulder and season with black pepper. Combine the herbs, lemon rind and butter in a bowl, season with a little salt, the spread over the inside of the joint. Roll up, tucking in where necessary, and tie up nice and securely.

Line a baking tray with tin foil, lay on the joint and wrap loosely. Cook at 180 for 2 hours, increase heat to 200,  uncover and cook for a further 45 minutes.

Allow to stand for 20 minutes, remove strings and carve into thick chunks - no need to worry about delicate uniform slices here.  Make a gravy from the roasting juices (skimmed) and beef stock (or even an Oxo cube, but I didn't say that!). The golden rule with all lamb dishes is that everything -  plates, vegetables, serving dishes and gravy have to be HOT!  Serve with plain vegetables so as not to distract from the flavour of the lamb and herbs.




Sunday 10 June 2012

STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM CAKE

I really enjoy cooking lunch on a Sunday. We usually eat around 2.00 so I have plenty of time to take things slowly and to try out different things. But we are quite traditional about our Sunday lunch so it usually involves something light and fishy for a starter, a roast or other lump of meat based main course, then something fruity and refreshing for pudding (and yes, I say pudding, I hate the term dessert - just one of my quirks).  Last night I had returned from three glorious days in and around Bournemouth with Mr Redding, so today was keeping everything very simple - smoked salmon to start, roast chicken and roast potatoes, runner beans and savoy cabbage and strawberries and cream to finish. But that pudding started worrying me - too simple. Strawberry mousse? Very nice but I didn't have any almond thins to go with and didn't feel up to making them. Then I thought - what about making a bit of sponge - relatively easy and very effective.  So I made a fatless sponge, layered it up with kirsch, strawberries and cream and it all turned out rather well......

Serves 4

Sponge

75g plain flour
Pinch of salt
3 eggs
75g caster sugar
Tblsp. warm water
Tsp. vanilla essence

Filling

Tblsp. Kirsch
400g  strawberries
200ml  double cream

Icing sugar and a skewer to serve
4 3" serving rings

Line a swiss roll tin with baking parchment.  Preheat the oven to 150.

To make the sponge whisk the eggs and sugar together with an electric whisk/mixer until pale, thick and frothy. Fold in the flour and salt and then add the water and vanilla essence.  Pour into the prepared tin and bake for 15 minutes, or until golden and firm to the touch.

Use a 3 inch serving ring to cut out 8 discs of sponge. Put a disc of sponge into each of 4 rings and place on a flat plate. Scatter a few drops of kirsch on the sponge.

Selecting smaller strawberries, cut the tops off, slice in half and arrange around the edge of the sponge, with the cut side facing the serving ring. Make sure they fit tightly.

With the rest of the strawberries, hull them, add a teaspoon of caster sugar, and mash gently in a bowl. Spoon the mashed strawberry and some of the juice into each of the serving rings until they are almost filled. Whip the cream until fairly stiff and spoon on top of the strawberry mixture - don't skimp.

Finally, place the other disc of sponge in the serving ring and sprinkle more kirsch on top. Leave in the fridge for a couple of hours.

To serve, upend the ring onto a plate and ease out. Heat the skewer until very hot, sprinkle the top of the sponge with icing sugar, then use the skewer to create a gird pattern on top. Serve with a little additional cream.

Thursday 31 May 2012

SMOKED MACKEREL PATE


There are times when you want something light but comfortingly familiar to have as a starter, particularly on a Sunday when there is a large lump of roast beef coming up as the main course. At times like this I either make a prawn cocktail (and I make no apologies for that) or this - smoked mackerel pate. It's beautifully flavoured but has a light texture so you are left hungry for more food. The addition of horseradish is a classic one and I can lay no claims for this being an innovatory ground breaking recipe - but it's delicious.

I serve it with homemade Melba toast which is crispy and a perfect contrast to the creaminess of the pate. Making Melba toast is quite easy, I always use packaged sliced white bread (we always called it 'plastic bread' when I was growing up). Toast the slice of bread until golden brown, cut the crusts off and slice it in two horizontally ( so that one side is toasted and the other side isn't). Heat up the grill, lay the toast white side up and brown - keep an eagle eye on it as it burns very easily. In my family four bits are required (i.e. two slices of bread).

Serves 4

250g smoked mackerel
125g cream cheese (you can use low fat if you wish)
2 tsp. horseradish - I use English Provender horseradish - it's 83% freshly grated horseradish whereas most sauces are around the 35% mark
Lemon juice to taste
Black pepper

Lemon wedges
Capers
Cornichons
Olive oil
Chives

Put the mackerel, cream cheese, horseradish and the juice of half a lemon in a food processor and blend.  Taste and add more horseradish, lemon juice, black pepper to taste.

Shape into nice little egg shapes (the cheffy word is quenelles), and serve with sliced cornichons, capers, chopped chives and a tiny dribble of olive.  And lots of Melba Toast!!








Monday 28 May 2012

TARTA DE NARANJA



Regular readers will know I cooked up a Spanish storm a couple of weeks ago. This is what we had for pudding, courtesy of Claudia Roden. It is a flourless cake made with eggs and ground almonds, then bathed in an orange syrup. You can make it the day before but as long as it has 4-6 hours to rest it's fine. Serve with cream or some lovely full fat Greek yoghurt. It is a lovely light zingy way to end a meal - and it is also a  very forgiving recipe....

Cake

4 eggs, separated
125g caster sugar
Grated zest of 1 orange
50g ground almonds
50g blanched almonds, finely chopped


Syrup


Juice of 3 oranges (about 300 ml)
75g sugar
Cinammon stick


Pre-heat the oven to 180, gas mark 4


Grease and flour a 20cm cake tin, preferably with removable sides - I use baking parchment too as the cake is quite sticky when it comes out of the oven.

Beat together the egg yolks with the sugar, orange zest and all the almonds until creamy. Whisk the egg whites until stiff and fold them in. Pour mixture into the tin and bake for 45 minutes. Allow to cool then transfer to serving plate.

To make the syrup simmer together the orange juice with the sugar and cinammon stick until the sugar has dissolved. Prick the cake with a skewer all over then gradually pour over the syrup. I do it a little at a time to allow it to absorb - it takes a little while. Put the cinammon stick on top for decoration.

Leave to soak for as long as you can, then serve with cream or yoghurt.
 

Monday 21 May 2012

LAMB WITH PEPPERS





I have been woefully neglectful of my blog for some time. You know how it is – work gets frantic, personal life take an unexpected turn, suddenly life is taking up far more time than it should do. But I think we’re over the worst now (fingers crossed) and I was delighted to have my mate Tony (aka The Skint Foodie) over for a Spanish-stylee dinner a couple of Saturdays ago.  

I turned to Rick Stein’s Spain and Claudia Roden’s new tome for inspiration. I didn’t want to do jamon, tortilla, albondigas and croquetas but something slightly different with maybe a couple of favourites thrown in.  The first dish I would like to share with you is inspired by Rick Stein’s Slow Braised Lamb with fresh and dried peppers  – we had this as a main course with a soupy vegetable dish of artichokes, peas and broad beans in a thickened chicken stock. There wasn’t much left, so it must have been alright. It is supposed to be quite a chilli hot dish so don’t spare the hot smoked paprika.

Slow Cooked Lamb with Peppers 

Serves 4 

1 kg neck fillet
1 tblsp hot smoked paprika
2 tblsp olive oil
2 medium onions sliced finely
4 garlic cloves finely sliced
1 tblsp hot smoked paprika
75g Serrano ham, finely chopped
Can of tinned tomatoes, chopped
1 tblsp fresh thyme leaves
4 bay leaves
2 large roasted skinned peppers from a jar (or DIY), chopped
1 tblsp. chopped flat  

Cut the lamb into bit sized chunks then toss in the sweet paprika and leave for an hour or so out of the fridge. Heat the oil then fry off the lamb in batches so that it gets a nice brown, slightly crispy, coat. Take out of the pan and put to one side. 

Add the onions and garlic to the oil and sautĆ© slowly until soft and golden brown. Add the paprika and Serrano ham and cook gently for a further five minutes. Add the tomatoes, thyme, bay leaves and pepper. Bring to a simmer, add the lamb, and braise for 45 minutes.  

Add more hot smoked paprika if not hot enough for you, sprinkle with the parsley and serve. I served it with vegetables cooked in a chicken broth, which suited the dish very well.....








Sunday 19 February 2012

CHICKEN STUFFED WITH SPINACH AND ROLLED IN PARMA HAM


I cook a lot of 'ethnic' food, as anyone who has looked at my blog will realise. But deep in my heart I love traditional European cooking and when I feel like making something special I will look towards Europe. This recipe is Italian in its roots and in its execution. I am not keen on pasta, or risotto, but I have been fortunate to experience other aspects of Italian cooking, both in the UK and in Italy.

This dish is simply delicious. I serve it with potatoes that are smaller than roast but larger than diced, and have been roasted with olive oil, rosemary and garlic slivers, and a pile of spinach that has been wilted with lots of grated lemon. I think it is a lovely dish - I hope you do too....






4 chicken breasts
16 slices of parma ham 

Filling

250g washed and drained spinach
50g butter
50g plain flour
250 ml milk
25g parmesan
Grated nutmeg
Black pepper

 Wild Mushroom Sauce 

30g dried wild mushrooms
Knob of butter
2 shallots finely
1 clove garlic crushed
150ml white wine
150ml dry vermouth
250ml chicken stock
100ml double cream
Seasoning

 First step is to make the spinach bĆ©chamel filling for the chicken breasts. Basically it’s a thick cheese sauce with chopped spinach. I favour the all in one in the microwave method so I select a large wide bottomed jug, melt the butter in it, stir in the flour them stir in the milk. Pop it back in the microwave for a couple of minutes, give it a good whisk, then back in for another couple of minutes, By this time the sauce should have relaxed but, if not so, add a tablespoon of water and put back in the microwave for another minute. Then add the grated parmesan, a good grating of nutmeg and some black pepper. Cook for another couple of minutes.

Meanwhile, put the washed spinach in a wide frying pan, put on a moderate heat and let the spinach wilt. There is no need to add water, oil, butter or salt. Once the spinach has wilted strain and chop finely.  Stir into the bĆ©chamel sauce and check for seasoning – you want this to have a pronounced nutmeg cheese flavour do don’t be shy! Leave the mixture to get cold.

Take four slices of Parma ham and arrange on your board one below the other, giving a squareish rectangle. Place the chicken breast diagonally onto the Parma ‘good’ side down.  Ignoring the fillet, make a slit along the side of the thickest part of the breast and then open it out. Put a quarter of the filling onto the flattened out breast then fold over the chicken, then wrap the whole breast up in the Parma ham. Take a square of cling film and roll the chicken breast up in it. Take hold of both ends and ‘spin’ so that you end up with a tightly bound sausage within cling film. Repeat with the other chicken breasts and place in the fridge.



For the sauce, sautƩ the shallots and garlic in the butter on a low heat until soft and golden. Add the white wine and simmer until almost completely reduced. Add the vermouth and simmer until almost reduced. Meanwhile, re-hydrate the wild mushrooms with boiling water. Add 250ml of the soaking liquid to the sauce along with the mushrooms and reduce by half. Add the chicken stock, bring to the boil then add the cream. Reduce until you have a medium thick sauce.

45 minutes before serving fill a deep sautĆ© pan with water and bring to the boil. Add the cling film wrapped chicken breasts and poach for 10 minutes per side. Meanwhile prepare a frying pan with olive oil. Once the breasts are poached peel off the cling film, heat the olive oil in the frying pan and gently fry off the breast, making sure the Parma ham is properly fried.


I serve this with cubes of potatoes roasted in olive oil with garlic cloves and rosemary, and spinach seasoned with lemon zest.


Sunday 12 February 2012

A BURGER AT HAWKSMOOR


My dear friend Sashimi Girl and I have been pursuing burgers,  not in the single minded way of some but we have sampled a few. We've done Meatwagon at The Rye, the Rivington Grill, Byron and a few others, and we felt it was time to visit Hawksmoor. We pitched up for our reservation at 1.30, intending to make an afternoon of it. The cocktail list at Hawksmoor is exemplary, imaginative yet respecting the principle that a cocktail should be strong and not filled up with fruit juice and umbrellas.  My particular favourite was the Silver Bullet - Gin, Kummel and Lemon Juice.  As the menu says 'This isn't for everyone - it depends whether you like Kummel, a spiced liqueur flavoured with caraway, cumin and fennel - but it's perfect for clearing fog at any time of day and has the odd distinction of being Prince Phuilip's favourite cocktail' - well I never thought I would have anything in common with the Duke but this was delicious, a great appetite stimulant - I had two....

So, onto the food. I started with Devon crab with toast which was all I could want it be, and Sashimi Girl had potted beef which disappeared pretty quickly. Then the main event....

We had tried to order our burgers on the rare side of medium but were told this wasn't possible because of health regulations. I had heard about this, and accepted it, but we were very happy to receive two beautifully pink burgers. I had mine without cheese and Sashimi Girl had stilton...we had also ordered a side of bone marrow which arrived beautifully prepared.

One bite and I was lost - the most flavoursome, juicy, beefy tasting burger I have ever had. I was truly astounded by the succulence, the tenderness, the way it melted in my mouth.  This is my benchmark burger to date...I look forward to finding a better one but I think the beef mix that Hawksmoor have, with those little nuggets of bone marrow, mkaes for a burger with a multi-dimensional flavour.  We devoured our burgers, ate as many of the excellent triple cooked chips that came with them as we could, then ordered another round of cocktails...the best way to spend a chilly afternoon.

We continue our quest.....AdCod next....

Saturday 21 January 2012

MY NEW TAGINE AND KEFTA

Mr Redding bought me some fantastic Christmas presents – most of them from Sally at Persepolis!  I am now the proud owner of an ‘I Love Peckham’ hoodie, cactus soap (which is fabulous) and, most beautiful of all, a tagine. I have hankered after a tagine for years, ever since visiting Marrakech in 2000. And this one is the real deal, handcrafted, hand decorated, a veritable thing of beauty.

I knew straight away that the first dish I cooked in it would be lamb meatballs, or kefta. Traditionally eggs are added at the end but that didn’t appeal, so I just served them as they came with couscous. I cooked the couscous with chicken stock, then seasoned well and added lots of chopped coriander and some lemon juice. I found cooking in the tagine very interesting. Sally recommended I used a diffuser, and the ‘we sell everything’ shop in the Aylesham Centre provided me with one (I actually had a choice of three!). The tagine took a long time to get up to temperature but once it was there the residual heat just kept on going…the saying about turning round oil tankers came to mind. But I came to realise that the tagine is a fabulous vessel for cooking, and the top of the cone stays cool…it is all so well designed, which is why it is still in use after centuries I suppose!  I can see me using it for more western style dishes too...
Serves 2

Kefta 

500g lamb mince
Small onion or shallot, chopped very finely
2 tsp ras-el-hanout
2 tsp smoked paprika
2 tsp baking powder
Handful finely chopped coriander
Ground black pepper and salt 
Sauce
Medium onion, finely sliced
Clove of garlic, crushed
Can of chopped tomatoes, drained
Ground black pepper and salt 

Put all the kefta ingredients together in a roomy bowl and knead together well with your hands until the fat starts to melt and the mixture becomes slightly sticky – this will take at least five minutes.  Put in the fridge for ten minutes.
With wetted hands, shape the mixture into walnut sized balls. Heat up the tagine, or a wide sautĆ© pan, and add two tablespoons of olive oil.  Fry the kefta until they are nice and brown all over. Remove and leave to drain ion some kitchen paper. 
To the remaining oil and sticky bits in the tagine add the onion and garlic. Cook slowly for at least ten minutes until thoroughly softened and slightly browned. Add the chopped tomatoes and a good grind of black pepper and a sprinkle of salt.  
Return the meatballs to the tagine, lower the heat and simmer for 20 minutes Check for consistency and if the sauce is a little thin allow to reduce uncovered. Sprinkle with some chopped coriander and serve with couscous or flat bread.


Sunday 15 January 2012

ONION RINGS.....


We all love a good onion ring by the side of a great burger or a magnificent steak. I love onions and I always find the battered single onion ring a little unsatisfying – too much batter, not enough onion, and so often you get that really annoying sensation when you bite into the onion ring and the whole ring comes out leaving you with a batter shell….. 

The best battered fried onions I have ever had were at a chinese restaurant in Kuala Trengganu in Malaysia. They were ethereal, little clumps of finely sliced onion coated in the lightest, airiest batter imaginable, and I have tried time and time again to recreate them. I’m not quite there yet but this is what I am currently serving when I cook Mr Redding a lovely steak from the East London Steak Company… 

It’s all a bit ‘cooking by feel’ so there is no list of ingredients. For one portion I slice one onion into fine rings and separate them out. Put the onion rings into a roomy bowl and add a couple of tablespoons of plain flour, a good shake of salt and black pepper, and a couple of teaspoons of baking powder. Add enough water to create a batter that is holding the rings together but is loose enough for them to move about. Fry at around 160 degrees for five minutes, until golden brown.   Eat IMMEDIATELY!!!

Monday 2 January 2012

CROCODILE PIE




There is no crocodile in this pie. When I was growing up we didn't have turkey for Christmas - instead we had a couple of chickens and a shoulder of pork, with a large ham cooked to add to the leftovers for Boxing Day. We also had the usual accompaniments of stuffing balls, chipolatas and bacon rolls.  Even though there could be 10-12 people around the table there was always a lot left over after Boxing Day and crocodile pie was my Mum's way of using them all up. I was a very trusting child and when Mum told me that the pie was made from the crocodiles at the end of our garden I believed her (crocodiles being very common in Essex) but when I began helping her with the cooking I was initiated into its mysteries.

It is very difficult to give quantities for this as it all depends on the amount of leftiover meat you have - you can also use up those cold chipolatas, bacon rolls and stuffing balls. As a rough guide try and have equal amounts of white chicken meat, dark chicken meat/pork/game and ham. Mince or lightly food process half the meat with an onion and chop the rest into small dice. Combine the meats in a large bowl with a good sprinkling of dried thyme and sage and a grind of black pepper.

Traditionally the next stage is to make up some packet chicken and leek soup but alternatively you can make up a sauce by cooking together a tablespoon of flour and butter and stirring in a pint of chicken stock and milk. Add enough of the sauce/soup to the meat to bind it together and make a moist filling.

Line a shallow pie tin with shortcrust pastry, add the filling, and cover with more pastry. Decorate appropriately and glaze with egg. Cook at 190 for 45 minutes until golden brown and bubbling. Crocodile pie is traditionally served with mashed potatoes, carrot and sprouts. Crocodile never tasted so good....